Ms. Glaze's Pommes d'Amour

Crazy Crawfish

I promise after this post that I will cut down on writing about all the icky fear factor stuff we do in cooking class and write about some of the pretty things we make – like homemade sausage – promise, promise, promise....

Today was another one of those overly complicated recipes that involves disembowling live langoustines (crawfish). Why is it necessary to disembowl them alive, one might ponder? Because otherwise their fat black intestine gets cooked in with their sweet flesh and it's very hard to remove and it doesn't look pretty.

When I got my bowl of crawfish they looked dead, which was a big relief. Even still, it took several deep sighs just to pick one up from the bowl. My Dad used to take me to sci-fi movies when I was a kid and crustaceans bring back nightmares from Alien, Star Trek, and all those other exo-skeletal movie monsters – blech! I finally grabbed one by the back and tossed it onto my cutting board with disgust. It had it's little hard tail curled under, so, avoiding it's pinchers, I carefully flattened it out. This, of course, woke him up.

Holding down the top part of it's thorax with my left hand, I used my right to twist the middle tail fin like a key and then pull out the intestine. At first it didn't make any movement and I thought– great it doesn't feel a thing! – but then it started doing this jumpy-back dance. Well, wouldn't you if some one ripped out your intestines? The chef came over and finished disembowling my crawfish for me. I think he must have seen my eyes fill with tears while watching my little langostine twist on the cutting board. It wasn't the taking out the intestine that was so hard, but watching them flip about on my cutting board afterward.

I quickly sautéed them in hot oil and butter to kill them as quickly as possible. The recipe is not one of my favorites so I won't bore you with the fish dumplings or the crayfish sauce thickened with béchamel. I just wanted to share my experience today....

Technorati Tags: Cooking School, crawfish, Cuisine, Le Cordon Bleu

Le Cordon Blur Countdown

The end of my intermediate cusine career at Le Cordon Bleu is in sight. It's so close I can taste it! I know, bad joke, but I'm tired and run down– it's all I can muster. I could use some serious maitenance right now. A manicure would be divine. My hands are covered with burns and cuts. Not to mention my 80's hairdo – business up front, party in the back. Yeah, that's me, thanks to my hair snapping from contantly being pulled back into a pony tail and the freezing cold weather cracking my folicles. I'm loosing hair! I'm a girl! This is bad. Just two more weeks...

Nonetheless, hair or no hair, I have made some darn tasty things at Le Cordon Blur – uh-ahem – Le Cordon Bleu. I prefer the dishes that use less fat and have simple preparations. Not because, I'm lazy or afraid of putting on the pounds (okay maybe a little) but my cooking philosophy centers around using the best produce and meats available paired with the perfect cooking technique to allow the natural flavors to shine. If it tastes better raw, then serve it raw dammit!

So here's some of my favs thus far: Galette Feuilletee Au Thon Mariné, Vinaigrette Vierge Au Basilic (Puff Pastry galette with marinated tuna, virgin vinagrette with basil) from the Côte d'Azur

Pavé de Boef Poele, Flan de Celeriac, Sauce Aux Truffes, et Cocottes a la Graisse d'Oie. That's a fancy way of saying: sautéed rumpsteak, celeriac flan, truffle sauce and potatoes in goose fat. By the way, goose fat is apparently good for you. That's what a chef told me, and I'm sticking to it. This one's from Périgord. Celeriac is an odd shaped small basketball-like root that tastes something between celery and a pine tree. However, it is a perfect match for the reduced Madeira truffle sauce that accompanies this dish.

Tian D'Agneau Cuit Rosé avec Jus a La Menthe Poivrée (Lamb fillet with vegetable tian peppermint jus). This gorgeous lamb pie has layers of sautéd mushrooms, tomato concaisse with garlic, and wilted spinach. The sauce is a lamb jus with a hint of mint. Yummmmm-y!

For the finishing touches I have to vote for the heavenly Let Pet de Nonnes Angevines Fourrées d'Une Creme a l'Orange (Anjou-style chou fritters with orange cream). They were saintly!

And lastly the Tulipe et Son Emulsion Au Citron de Menton (tulip cookie with lemon emulsion). The chef called this one an 80's hit, which I found hilarious considering that the 80's are very much alive in Paris. Whatever the time perioed, the lemon cream melts in your mouth and the caramel decoration provides that certain je ne sais quoi. This one's also from La Côte d'Azur.

Technorati Tags: Cooking School, Food, Le Cordon Bleu, paris cooking school

Beautiful Barcelona

One of my New Year's Resolutions this year is to travel throughout Europe and take advantage of all the cheap flights and sweet offseason deals. The grey and cold weather in Paris, has a way of wearing down one's motivation, so this weekend I escaped to Barcelona, Spain for sunshine and crazy nocturnal festivities ;-)

I rushed through my Friday night practical at Le Cordon Bleu to make my flight to Barcelona on time. Thankfully the mornay sauce for my cauliflower dish didn't break (bechamel sauce with egg yolks) and my bacon wrapped monkfish with braised artichokes the chef deemed as "tres bien". A relief considering the pace at which I cranked through everything. Muchas gracias to my cooking partner who made efforts to help get me out faster (thanks Jamie!).

I arrived at the airport three hours earlier than my flight and was able to easily switch to another flight. Iberia Air is cool like that. They are also cheap if you book at least two weeks ahead of time. Two hours later I touched down in Barcelona and caught a taxi to Hotel Pulitzer. The hotel I stayed at is owned by the Clarion group (think Comfort Inn) but their Barcelona hotel is super trendy (no, really, it is). There were all sorts of glamoratti, fashion photographers, and film makers staying at the hotel–no doubt they opted for the same great Expedia deal as me.

Saturday morning we went for cafe con leche, Spanish pastries, and sunshine at Cafe Zurich. Coffee in Spain is really good. The last time I was in Spain was 12 years ago and I remember thinking, "this is the best coffee in the world, I could drink cafe con leche all day long..." and I still feel that way. I also remember thinking, "I could live here for the rest of my life..." and I definately still feel that way too!

Some things never change. However, Cafe Zurich has. The original cafe was flattened around 8 years ago and replaced with a shiny chrome exterior underneath a shopping center, but the new one still offers the same attentive service and people watching opportunities. After a leisurely breakfast, we strolled down La Rambla to the harbor and took in some provacative street tango and crazy performance artist acts along the way.

Saturday night is a little bit of a blur. We went to so many bars and clubs that I couldn't keep track of them all. I did manage to keep pace with my Spanish buddies until 6:30 AM, but I slept through my flight the next day. Did I mention that Iberia is really cool about switching flights? Check out my rec's below for fun clubs and yummy restaurants. I love Barcelona. The people are friendly, they believe in customer service, the food is delicious and international, it's not overpriced, the nightlife is fun, and the city is clean and beautiful.

Next on my list is Portugal for a surfing vacation in Lagos and some porto tasting up north. Just two more weeks left until I graduate from my intermediate courses at Le Cordon Blue and take off for some serious relaxation! If anyone has restaurant/club suggestions for Lagos or Libon please pass it along.

Clubs:
Sugar Clubat the World Trade Center
www.sugarclub-barcelona.com
Trendy, hip, view of water, lots of great house dj's

Otto Zutz Club
Scensters, multi-level with different music styles on each. Fun

Shoko Club
Young, hip, right on the beach, back porch with big couches to sip cocktails and enjoy the beach view. It's a restaurant that becomes a club later in the evening. Definately worth a visit!

Restaurants:
Little Italy Ristorante
Av. Marques de l/Argentera, 19
tel. 93.268.76.33
08003 Barcelona
Trendy, industrial jazz design, seasonal fresh limited menu. Delicious. Try the beet nocchi with brown butter and sliced almonds if it's still on the menu

7 Portes
Catalan cuisine with good paella. A little touristy, but still worth a visit because it's been around for ever

Technorati Tags: barcelona, clubs, Food, restaurants, travel

French Female Wine Makers

I have two unusual delicious white wines that you MUST try if you can get ahold of them. They are not cheap– but neither is the experience. The first is a white Chateauneuf du Pape that is made with two cepages not available anywhere else in the world and the second is a Grand Cru Reisling that changed my notions of Alsace wines forever. Both wines are made by female wine makers in France and they are both organic. This in itself is unusual.
White Chateauneuf du Pape 2003, Domaine de Marcoux, Sophie et Catherine Armenier:

Sisters Sophie Estevenin and Catherine Armenier adopted bio-dynamic techniques. Their wines are so good that they offer evidence that bio-dynamism can be tasted in the bottle. In 2003, Robert Parker named Sophie and Catherine Wine Personalities of Year for their red wines: "Over the last 12 years, the biodynamically farmed vineyard has risen to the top of Châteauneuf-du-Pape's quality hierarchy. The two red wines produced have been stunning, with the regular cuvée of Châteauneuf-du-Pape one of the finest in the appellation, and the limited production Cuvée Vieilles Vignes one of the world's truly magnificent wines."
The Armenier family have been viticulturalists since the 1300's. Their 10 hectares of Chateauneuf-du-Pape is split between a regular cuvée and the "Vieille Vignes" or "old vines". Vinification is made using traditional foudres with the Vieille Vignes spending a little more time in wood. Usually, just 2000 cases are made, although sometimes even less. All the 2003 cases are outstanding....if you can get them...
Many people are familiar with only the red Chateauneuf de Pape, but the white is something divine. Full bodied, rich, exquisitely balanced, with stewed quince, pears, minerals, toasty oak and vanilla flavors. Very very sensual. Uh, like VERY sensual...
Reisling Schlossberg 2004, Alsace Grand Cru, Domaine Weinbach, Colette Faller et Fils:

Colette Faller is the great lady of Kaysersberg. Since the death of her husband in 1979, and now with her two daughters Catherine et Laurence, she runs the famous Clos du Capucins. A microclimate that is mild in winter and hot in summer which creates an ideal situation for the alluvial deposits of the Weiss and low yields of exceptional quality.

Wine Spectator:
"A beautiful wine. Serious ripeness and obvious residual sugar in this opulent Riesling. With a texture of cashmere delivering the apricot, grapefruit and spice notes, it is seamless and utterly seductive. Juicy acidity emerges on the finish." 94
Yeah, couldn't have said it better myself...Santé!

Technorati Tags: Alsace, Chateauneuf du Pape, french wine, Reisling, wine

Crepes, Crepes, Crepes!

I have a very special French friend, Marine, who besides being an amazing person is also our barometer for all things francais. She has helped tremendously during our first year abroad and has even been known to make reservations at itimidating restaurants, translate important documents, and include us in french traditions and holidays.

In honor of "La Chandeleur" Marine held a huge Crepe Party. The significance dates back to the middle-ages. Traditionally, in France, La Chandeleur is celebrated every February 2nd, in honor of the dead (including the end of the winter), and for good fortune. Crepes are a symbol or wealth, and making crepes while holding a gold coin should bring good fortune and health during the year. Marine found historical details dating back to Pope VII! Nowadays in early February people make crepes, put on costumes and throw fresh eggs and flour to people on the streets! (well, some do, like students).

When I arrived, Marine had prepared all imaginable accoutrements for the crepes: tomato confit, sauteed mushrooms, grated gruyere, chevre, lardon (bacon), blue cheese, and eggs. For the dessert crepes we had our choice of homemade mandarin, blackberry, and strawberry jams or flambéd crepes with Grand Marnier. She also served an "inbetween" crepe filled with chevre, honey, and walnuts–
yummm!

I watched as she tossed crepe after crepe in the air....

We did get a little too crazy with the flambéd crepes and at one point switched from Grand Marnier to Rum which was NOT a good idea. As we discovered the higher alcohol content in rum causes a much MUCH bigger flame. We melted the air filter on her stove which ended our flambé fun. Luckily the filter is easily replaced, however it dripped all over our last crepe of the evening.

I DO NOT recommend lighting anything on fire, but for those curious about the process you heat up a small amount of alcohol (usually a congnac or some sort of liquer) to a simmer then pour it over gently while simultaneously lighting on fire with the longest possible match or lighter. Do not put your face over it or have anything around that can catch on fire– you can never tell how big the flames are going to be.

We gobbled our delicious crepes with Cidre (hard sparkling cider) and had good fun with baby Zoe..the real light of the party!

Thanks again Marine for all delicious fun :-) and to Stuart Isett (Pro photographer) for capturing our flambé moments.

Sweet Crepes:
120 g flour (2/3's cup)
pinch of salt
30g sugar (one big Tablespoon)
2 eggs
250ml milk (one cup)
60ml water (two big Tablespoons) or subsitute Grand Marnier or eau de vie
30g butter melted

1. In a bowl sift flour, salt, and sugar. Pour eggs in a well in the center and whisk in incorporting flour from sides of well. Slowly whisk in milk and water util batter is smooth. Lastly whisk in alcohol. Strain if it is lumpy
2. Heat a crepe pan or large nonstick pan and swirl a little melted butter over surface. Pour in about 50 ml of batter and rotate pan so batter coats evenly. Cook for 1 minute then gently lift edges with spatula and flip onto the other side. Or toss like Marine if you're feeling lucky! Crepe should be a pale golden color.
3. Place desired filling on one half of crepe and fold the other half on top. Fold again to make a triangle and serve warm.
Fillings could include: nutella, bananas, jams, sucre, sliced almonds, chevre, lemon, and honey

Savory Crepes:
120 g flour (2/3's cup)
pinch of salt
big pinch of sugar
2 eggs
250ml milk (one cup)
60ml beer (4 big Tablespoons) 30g butter melted

Follow instructions above
Fillings could include: eggs, gruyere, ham, tomato confit, sauteed mushrooms, caramelized onions, blue cheese, nuts, chevre, whatever else your heart desires!

Technorati Tags: crepes, Food, Paris, recipes

Best Basque Cuisine: L'Ami Jean

L'Ami Jean is my top pick in Paris right now. It is so so so so SO good! This restaurant is solid with seasonal delicious Basque food at affordable prices. Choose one of their succulent meat dishes for two (could easily serve four) or a perfectly prepared fish entrée or let one of the waiters choose your menu so you can get an idea of the region. The atmosphere in the restaurant is fun and inviting, but they are very serious when it comes to cooking. Bring your appetite...

The restaurant was orginally opened in 1931 by a Basque nationalist. One would never guess from the strings of garlic, peppers, legs of hanging jambon, Basque rugby player photos, pelote memorabilia, and Basque berets displayed on the wood paneled walls. I wrongfully assumed that Basque food was heavy and was so impressed after my first meal that I've been bringing friends and family back since. (Thanks Carrie & Sylvie for dragging me out that night long ago!). This is a fun restaurant and it is always packed so a reservation is necessaire.

C’était vachement bon!!!!

L’Ami Jean
27 rue Malar, 7th arrondissement
Tel. 01 47 05 86 89
Closed Sunday, Monday

Technorati Tags: Food, Paris, Paris restaurants, Basque

Fear Factor? Naaaah, Poulet en Barbouille

Poulet en Barbouille is a very old recette that some say dates waaaaay back to a battle between Ceasar and the Gauls. It's similar to the Burgundian Coq au Vin but it's origins are from Berry. The sauce is finished with blood to thicken it and give a beautiful glossy deep brown color.

It can be hard to find animal blood and this recipe can be thickened with potato starch (fecule) instead, but it won't give the quite the same color or flavor. I greatly appreciate the French use of the total animal. This is evident in their heritage of delicious sauces made from carcass or bones, chacuterie, and dishes made of various organs (kidneys, sweetbreads, liver, etc).

It's not easy working with ingredients that aren't commonly found in home kitchens and in this case we were all a little grossed out by the pints of blood... hence the funny photos. Notice how the color of the sauce changes with the addition of blood at the end. Also, if you do use blood you need to add a drop of vinegar to it and mix it in.

Recipe:
Chicken parts of 2 chickens marinated in red wine from 12 hours to 2 days.
1 inch thick slab of lardon (bacon)
1 yellow onion
2-3 whole garlic cloves
2 carrots
5 Juniper berries lightly crushed
10 black pepper corns lightly crushed
300ml veal stock
Two whole bay leaves
Sprigs of dry thyme
150ml blood with a 1/2 teaspoon of vinegar added
2 Tablespoons toasted flour (light brown in color)
50ml cognac
Peanut oil for frying chicken (3-4 Tablespoons)
Preheat oven to 200˚C or 400˚F

1. Drain chicken. Reserve marinade and reheat to a boil on stove. Skim impurities that float to the top. Set aside.
2. In a large oven safe skillet sweat chopped onion and carrots over medium low. Be careful not to brown vegetables. Add bay leaf, thyme, and garlic.
3. Take bacon and blanch it by putting the whole slab into a pot of cold water then boil it. Skim impurties off the top and remove bacon right after it's boiled.
3. In a smaller skillet brown chicken in a 3-4 T of peanut oil. Oil should be hot before adding chicken. Put chicken in skin side down first. Once chicken is browned remove and let drain.
4. Add chicken to sweated onions and carrots over medium heat. Deglaze pan with cognac. Once cognac has mostly evaporated and the alcohol burned off, sprinkle toasted farine over and stir to coat vegetables and chicken.
5. Add veal stock and enough marinade to almost cover the chicken but not quite. Add peppercorns and crushed juniper berries, and bacon slab.
6. Cover with lid or parchment paper and cook for 45 minutes.
7. When chicken is done, decant and keep warm.
8. Remove rind from bacon and cut into batonets or little pieces, add to chicken and keep warm.
9. Strain sauce from vegetables into a saucepan. Heat sauce on medium heat and let reduce a little (not too much, just so it's soupy). Skim fats from surface.
10. Pour 2/3rd's of sauce back over chicken. With the remaing 1/3 add the blood and stir over medium heat. The color will change quickly from red to a dark rich brown and thicken. Pour this over chicken and stir to combine.
11. Serve immediately.

Notes: If you are making for a dinner party you can cook the chicken in advance and then do the sauce with at the last minute. This dish cannot be reheated because the blood sauce gets globby.

Technorati Tags: Cuisine, Food, Le Cordon Bleu, Paris, recipes

Got Mole? Parisian Mexican Food

I have found two outstanding Mexican restaurants that satisty my desire for enchilades covered in red sauce, mole slow cooked with unsweetened chocolate, and firey soup garnished with shrimp and avocado. Not to mention margaritas– there's nothing like a margarita to transform a smokey cafe into a tropical paradise. Okay, maybe that's going a bit too far but, you get the point.

Strangely enough, Paris has tons of Tex-Mex chains that are surprisingly popular. One such place is called Indiana and they serve huge portions even by American standards. My husband and I checked it out during one of those gotta-have-Mexican-food days. My enchilades tasted the same as his burrito. We were kinda like, "hmmmm, this is odd..." but we gobbled it down anyway just for the novelty of it. We felt sick later.

However if you've been living in Paris craving Mexican food then you MUST check out Anuhuacalli. It is owned by a really sweet couple who passionately cook authentic Mexican food. I inhaled my enchilades verdes before I could even snap a photo (sorry) and my amigo opted for a salmon and papaya dish that was equally tempting. The margaritas were the real deal with top shelf tequila. The restaurant is small and moderately decorated with objects and art from Monterey, Mexico. Make a reservation (they speak English, French, and Spanish) and go....

Number two on my list is A La Mexicaine. It's a festive place for a party with live mariachi music and beautiful decor and good authentic food. Their prefix meal is a great deal and includes a margarita. However, my group all had hangovers the next day and we were NOT boozing it (really, I promise). I'm always wary of pre-blended drinks. I ordered the tri color enchilades with an entrée of ceviche and I think between the six of us we ate through half their supply of salsa fresca.

See...three very happy customers :-)

Anuhuacalli
30 rue des Bernadins, 5th (01.43.26.10.20)
metro Maubert-Mutualité

A La Mexicaine
68 rue Quincampoix, 3rd (o1.48.87.99.34)
metro Rambuteau or Les Halles

Technorati Tags: Food, Paris restaurants, Mexican

Dinner Debate

Picture by Gliderknight

After a challenging dinner party I went to the other night, I have to share some concerns I have with America’s image abroad. I've encountered many situations where people say what American culture is without ever having set foot in the "big bad" United States. What most don't consider is America is a huge country and each state has it’s own identity similar to France and it's regions (pays). This concept is very hard to explain just like it’s hard to explain that all New Yorkers aren’t gang members and all Texans don’t ride horses and carry rifles...

I was told last night that Americans don’t eat organic food, the wine is horrible, we know nothing about cheese making, our cuisine is based on fast food, and everyone is fat. All quite ironic considering that Paris farmer’s market’s produce and meats are rarely organic (even though people think so), Cowgirl Creamery cheese recently beat the French in an international competition, West Coast wines (example: Stag's Leap Cellars) consistently score high internationally, and the French obesity rate in children is steadily increasing (Economist Article: Gross National Product.

I feel that America is going through a food Renaissance and more people need to know that. In San Francisco we are adamant about our organic produce. We encourage heirloom fruits and vegetables and we recognize and are willing to pay for organic products. There are huge stores like Whole Foods that encourage organic produce as well as a myriad of smaller ones like Rainbow Grocery. Our Safeway's (like Monoprix) now even carry good organic produce. San Francisco is known for it’s diversity and the cuisine reflects that.

Finally after being scolded for jogging (it’s bad for you–who knew?) and told that Paris is pollution free, we were asked to describe San Francisco cuisine. We looked at each other in disbelief: What is San Francisco cuisine!?!? How can we answer that question? It is not simply coq au vin or a cheese soufflé or a sauce bordelaise over filet! We stumbled over the question…it’s kind of like fusion food with, uh, organic heirloom produce, and lot’s of sea food, and great wine, not too much butter…olive oil, we’re really into olive oil. We were bumbling idiots!!! There was our big chance to prove to the French just how inventive we are and we couldn’t think of anything!

So, in search of the ultimate reference book to use for self-defense in the future, I bought the new San Francisco Chronicle Cookbook Volume II (which is just as good as Volume I) and the recipes reflect the amazing world cuisine in San Francisco restaurants. There are Regional Indian, Thai, Chinese, Italian, French, Malaysian, American, Mexican, South American food recipes from my favorite eateries. But how to explain this to people without throwing the cookbook at them?

The next time some one asks me the same question I would like to have an answer prepared. So I guess my question is: what is your impression of American cuisine and specifically, how to define California Bay Area food? I’m also interested in how other American cities describe their cuisine. I would be grateful for any words of wisdom….