« Ms. Glaze in Marrakech | Main | Laverie Automatique III »

May 19, 2007


Stu "El Inglés" Harris

Your hollandaise method is intéressant. I still use the method I learned from Len Deighton in the '70s. You really have to do it at the last moment, so you miss the interesting flirtations at the dinner table, and there's always the risk of producing a sauce cassé. So, thanks for another good'un (I know and love white asparagus -- tried to grow some once, failure).

Ms. Glaze

Bonjour Stu! I hope I didn't lead anyone astray thinking that they could prepare hollandaise sauce way far in advance!?!?! You're right about doing it right before serving. As you know it CANNOT be reheated. Normally I cook my steaks and let them rest, then whip up the sauce. That way it's perfect – but when I'm filming it's a little difficult to get the right flow.

The only time I've really messed up the sauce was when either the butter was hot instead of warm or the skillet with water was boiling instead of gently simmering. Then I curdle the eggs and have to start over.

You know, there is a way to save broken hollandaise sauce if it breaks while adding the butter. It's possible to add another egg yolk to bring it back together. At least that's what the Joy of Cooking says but I've never tried it.

Bisous! Ms. Glaze

Ms. Glaze

Hiya Stu – I forgot to ask, didn't Len Deighton write spy novels or something? I vaguely remember a movie with Michael Cain. Does he have an extra secret hollandaise recipe for us!?!?


Fleur de sel?

Ms. Glaze

Yes, fleur de sel in both the herb butter and the hollandaise sauce.

Stu "El Inglés" Harris

Yes indeed, Len Deighton was first a spy novelist (The Ipcress File, Billion Dollar Brain [made into a movie starring Françoise Dorleac, who died in a gruesome car crash on the Grande Corniche before post-production was finished, but I digress]) second a cooking enthusiast and overall nice guy to have a beer or three with.

Rescuing sauce cassé: The principle, both for hollandaise and mayonnaise, is to start with a fresh yolk and drip the spoiled mixture into it, whisking frantically. A few drops of iced water can also (sometimes) work magic. I can't think of a worse cooking moment than seeing your sauce separate before your appalled eyes; ugghhhh....

Stu "El Inglés" Harris

Oh, wait, the Deighton recipe was the point, not nostalgia for dead, gorgeous, french actresses... well, essentially the same except he doesn't pre-melt the butter, and stabilises the mixture with a little lemon juice. Emulsification is a scientific process you can't really mess with too much.

Stu "El Inglés" Harris

Please excuse the triple-post: this is interesting. I just did a swift wiki-research and was reminded that Len originally produced his cooking tips in the form of cartoon strips in the London Observer. Go to http://www-staff.mcs.uts.edu.au/~tomlin/LD/cooking.html to see an example. I'm absolutely sure, now that my memory has been jogged, that this was the format in which the hollandaise recipe reached me. Clever idea....

Ms. Glaze

Cool Stuart! Thanks for the triple post. I'm triple posting today too – and not just to make my blog look popular although it doesn't hurt (hee hee). I'm a little curious about the unmelted butter in the hollandaise sauce. It really works? The lemon juice I normally add only for hollandaise sauce although you can add a little for acidity to sauce maltaise.

And just to clarify TSC Girl's question, fleur de sel is: "flower of the salt." A rare sea salt harvested by hand in Brittany, France and available only in limited quantities. Composed of the natural crystal formations found on the surface of a salt marsh. The crystals are sun-dried only, thereby maintaining many of the nutrients not found in typical prepared salts.

Ms. Glaze

Stu "El Inglés" Harris

>It really works?

Sure. Of course you do it a little at a time. I might even speculate that keeping the temperature down is a Good Thing™....

Oui Chef

Hey Amy your veal looks beautiful. tu peux faire une sauce maltaise à l'avance, le tout c'est de ne pas la garder dans un endroit qui est trop chaud.
Et puis faire comme dans les années 70 c'est bien mais il faut savoir évoluer avec son temps, tu sais tu peux faire une mayonnaise ou une hollandaise avec un mixer, c'est très bien et ça va plus vite (je te montrerais quand tu reviendras).
En tout cas ton blog est vraiment superbe et ne fais pas attention au personnes qui peuvent le critiquer (ils le font parce qu'il sont jaloux).
A bientôt.

Amit S. Kashyap

Bonjour Amy:

I will be attending Le Cordon Bleu on June 11th..I'm so excited and have been such a huge fan of your Blog. Can't wait to see you on the food network here in the States.

Ms. Glaze

Wow Amit! Merci Bien!!! That makes my day for sure. I can't wait to here about your LCB experience ;-)

Ms. Glaze

Zohreh Gervais

I love Paris on the Terrace! My husband and I love your blog, all the way from Winnipeg, Canada, and sigh for the day when we can afford to travel to all the places you've been and taste all the foods you describe. Granted, if we stopped indulging ourselves here we might have better luck saving up for a trip to visit my family in Paris... and I hear it's much cheaper to get to Morocco and England from Paris than Winnipeg... but still.... musicians' salaries should be bigger!

Keep up the awesome blog.

christine (myplateoryours)

What fun, again! I am enjoying these video posts, and imagining that I have a terrace in Paris as well.


I enjoy your cooking demos. The presentation is beautiful. The chopping sounds help me feel that I am right in the room with you. But...please be careful of all the 'gonnas' you say--I know it is American (and I am American) but the 'gonnas' detract from the classiness.


Thanks Ms. Glaze, I've learned so much by 'watching' your blog... haha...

Ms. Glaze

Seren – You're right! But I taught cooking to teenagers for such a long time that I'm afraid some speech habits die hard, "First you're gonna _____, then you're gonna _____, then you're gonna clean up or I won't give you a grade. Any questions?"

Chaxiubao – Loved your last post on all the different types of chinese chicken recipes. Fascinating!!!!


Although normally I buy green asparagus, reading this recipe inspired me to buy white asparagus on my last visit to the vegetable market- but they were horrible and bitter!! We could barely eat an inch of the spear. Was the bitterness because it is so late in the season and they were not good? Or did I cook them wrong? Or was it just a case of not peeling enough? I am baffled, having eaten white aspargus several times at someone else's hous when it tasted fine.

Ms. Glaze

Oh no! Bitter white asparagus? Blech!!! They are out of season I'm afraid, which probably accounts for the bitterness. You do need to peel the stalks to remove that woody layer, but if it doesn't taste sweet under that they they are no good. There's always next March/April/May...

The comments to this entry are closed.

My Photo

Your email address:

Powered by FeedBlitz

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

Blogher Ad Network


Blog powered by Typepad
Member since 10/2005