The Ending Chapter And the Beginning of a Restaurant

This has been the most insane two weeks of my life. 

Fourteen days ago I was unsure of how I was going to buy groceries. Now I still don't know how I'm going to buy groceries, but if I use the Enron mark to mark balance sheet module I might be able to bank on potential profits. 

I'm re-opening a restaurant in San Francisco!

  I came home to the Bay Area to find and apartment and found myself a job instead. Gina Milano, owner of several popular establishments in San Francisco called me last week and the conversation went something like this:

"Amy, Babe, where in the world are you right now? Are you still at Le Bernardin or are you in Paris, or where?!?"

"I'm flying back to SF this week. Why? What's up?"

"You want to cook a dinner party for 30 people on Wednesday at Le Club?"

"Sure! What's the menu? Or do you have one yet?"

"Yeah, it's easy. It's a salad with three choices of entrées: chicken, filet, or pumpkin risotto and chocolate pots de crème for dessert."

"No problem, I can make that happen..."

"Call me when you get in hon'."

I'm great at committing myself to things and then freaking out over how I'm going to accomplish them. So I call one of the sous chef's at Le Bernardin and ask for advice because he is the master of running private parties. 

"How much filet do you think I'll need to order for a party of 30 texan doctors with 3 choices on the menu? I don't want to over order the filet because it will go to waste."

"Are you kidding me? You better expect all of them will order filet."

"Yeah, that's what I thought." I respond with calculator in hand adding up pound per pound.

"What are the other options?"

"Roasted chicken and pumpkin risotto"

"No one's gonna order the risotto." 

"Yeah, not when there's filet on the menu. So I'm cooking this alone. I gotta pre-sear stuff or I'm going to get seriously crushed."

"Oh yeah, pre-sear everything. You really gotta take the bull by the horns, ya know? I mean you have to embrace it even if you don't want to embrace it or you're going to fail. Failure is not an option, remember? See, now you understand why I was such a control freak in the salon parties."

"Yeah, I understand a lot more now, that's for sure. I wish I had taken better notes."

"You'll be fine. Just don't leave anything up in the air and trust no one. If you mess up something in the cooking process then you can blame yourself, but it you let some one else f'ck it up then that's a different story. You'll be fine. Let me know how it goes, huh?"

 It's not that preparing a meal for thirty people is so difficult. But picking up three different entrées simultaneously and getting food out hot and timed correctly for thirty people is challenging when you have limited help. 

The evening was a total success. Knowing that it would be impossible to plate thirty dishes and pick up three different entrées alone, I brought in a new cook friend of mine to help out and we just had a blast in the kitchen.

It's been a long time since I actually had fun cooking. I forgot how much I loved it. Working in 3 Michelin star restaurants is exciting, but the pressure can be draining. And it's hard to find time to really talk to colleagues and get to know them. Crazy, considering we work side by side day in day out.

 I blaze through most of the prep the day before and Eric comes in after his daytime shift at a different restaurant to help me finish up. We're ready to go. No rush. We're confident. We're swapping cooking stories, jokes, comparing burns injuries, talking about knives, gossiping about cooking schools and restaurants. We're having fun. 

We wait and wait and still the tables haven't ordered and now we're getting bored and Eric, no doubt, is getting tired having already worked 10 hours or more. The servers bring the tickets back to us and sure enough each of the three tables has ordered a staggering amount of filet. I sell one risotto. What a waste of time and effort! But thank God I ordered enough filet to cover the board. 

  We pump out the orders table by table all the while loving the 12 burner stove from the 1940's that burns hotter than any stove top I've ever worked with. And then one of the ovens dies. The chicken is semi-done. Not good. I put my hand in the oven and realize it's gone kaputz. 

 

 

  But it's not a major catastrophe. I switch the proteins to the other oven and in minutes we're ready to plate. The first table is turned out a few minutes later than I would have liked, but the servers reassure me there is no rush. The party is giving speeches, drinking wine, and enjoying themselves.

  I pick up three more last minute private parties in the same week. All the parties go smoothly and the regular customers happily eat up the extras I send out to the bar. Everyone agrees that it's time to bring the food back.

The last chef was fired a year ago for soaking the restaurant in outrageously high food and staff costs and Gina has kept the restaurant closed ever since keeping the three lounge rooms open for cocktails. She books the small restaurant with private parties and normally brings in a chef to cook. We've flirted off and on this year about re-opening it. But with the bad economy and my work commitment in New York, the timing was off.

Now the timing is perfect!

I am scared, nervous, and totally excited. It is rare that a cook can walk into a kitchen that has everything in place and do exactly what he or she wants to – with in limits of course, we are working on a tight budget. Which makes it even more of a creative challenge and will translate into an affordable menu that clearly everyone is looking for these days. We're bringing 'bistro' back. (As if it ever went out.)

 

  

 

I love the venue. I always have. It's one of San Francisco's last true historic gems. In fact the name, Le Club, dates back to the original restaurant/lounge in the 1920's. It has an old Paris bistro feel with a certain San Francisco speakeasy flare. And the kitchen is amazing. Small, but loaded with goodies.

 

 

  And the piano! Oh my goodness I have never worked on a piano quite like this one. Twelve burners, two rows of six, with unusual flower shaped cast iron and btu's that are out of control. An energy saver's nightmare for sure. Now if I can just get that oven calibrated...

I will be heading back to NYC to pack up and move out. We hope open next month. In the meantime come by for a properly made cocktail or glass of champagne on the top of Nob Hill! Or, book a reservation for March...

I can't believe this is really happening!

Le Club

San Francisco

1260 Jones Street, 94109 (top of Nob Hill)

Comments

[Tana Butler]

Amy, I don't know you, but your sweet face and your abundant joy in your life's work make me want to love you.

I haven't blogged in so long, but you make me want to get back into the saddle.

I am so very happy for you—to have observed your journey and to see the heavenly place which you've earened with your talent and goodness.

[Ms. Glaze]

Tana! You are one of my favorite bloggers. Really, you write from the heart, care for our land, our farmers, our community, and your photographs are stunning.

I would love to meet you in person when I get back to the Bay Area and when the pre-opening jitters wear off. And, I would love to get in touch with some of these farmers you've been showcasing throughout the years.

I have not lived in CA for six years now and I'm out of touch with who's who. But you know I will do anything I can to support local farmers...

Much love and hope to connect soon!

Amy

[john]

My God Ms Glaze! Everthing looks gorgeous! John

[Ms. Glaze]

Just an FYI we have not updated the website yet to reflect the change in menu and new business hours. So stay tuned...

[Mad William]

Congrats Amy! That's fantastic. I can't wait to visit.

[House Hunting in Paris]

Congrats, all your work, sacrifice, and patience has paid off! If I ever make it out to SF I will be sure to try out your new place. Good luck.

[phillippa]

This brought a big smile to my face. I'm living in Paris, originally from SF, and am definitely coming in on our next trip back home. I admire your commitment and stamina, and have happily accompanied you through your adventures, successes and bounce backs. A thousand congrats on this next chapter.

[Truffled Scrambled Eggs]

Iam so very happy for you—to have observed your journey and to see the heavenly place which you've earened with your talent and goodness....
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Viva-Magazine-Your-Premium-Womens-Natural-Health-Magazine/262734921452?ref=ts

[Lucy]

Really wonderful to hear that you have this great opportunity. You will succeed, I can tell.

[Lydia (The Perfect Pantry)]

How exciting! Sometimes the universe just tells you what it wants you to do, and you have to be smart enough to go along with it. Can't wait to stop in next time I'm in SF.

[Expat Stu]

I'll be in too. Bonne chance!

[kevin]

Woo hoo! And that's a gorgeous place. Congrats!

[TikiPundit]

Wow wowow! This is great news. You have your own place after Paris, NY, a foodies-must-read blog and even fun cooking videos. I would have thought a book would come first ('cause you can certainly write), but this is really, really cool. Congrats!

[twitter.com/nelson]

Welcome back to San Francisco!

[www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1616576417]

Amy Kudos.. I have been following your journey for a few years now. It is only natural for you to land in SF.
Had worked kitchens in the 70s.....Loved it but very hostile towards women, especially one with a child. So turned to catering.
Bravo for you,
Will visit later this spring.

[Mary]

oMg Amy.
All this time I have followed your blog and I will actually be able to meet you and taste your food. I live in Marin~! yea, congrats! you deserve it.
I can only guess what you have left out of your blogs, but the burns and the humiliation and endless hours are about to pay off for you big time.
MARY
Corte Madera

[Kalynskitchen]

Well, wow!! This is exciting news. I come to SF at least once or twice every year, so I'll look forward to visiting (and meeting you in person at last!)

[Victoria]

Congratulations Amy, this is fantastic! I've been following your blog since you were in Paris and loving all of your adventures. I live in San Jose, so I will definitely be by to check out your restaurant.

[Steve]

Hi Amy - Congratulations! I've been following you and your adventures for awhile, and am so glad things have worked out for you! I live in SF as well, and just made a reservation for March! Can't wait!

[Erica]

Congratulations, Amy! That is fantastic news, and now that we're back in the Bay Area, we'll definitely be in to taste all of this wonderful cooking that I've been reading about for years.

[Angel Junio]

CONGRATULATIONS! Let me know when I'll def. stop by :)

[Jonathan]

I h8 presearing, but its a definite necessity for parties :-(.

I'm super excited for you. The bay area is lucky to be getting you! I hope you still get chances to give your blog some content!

[Alison]

Wow, Wow, Wow! Félicitations! Keep us posted on how it goes, please!

[Paul]

Congratulations Amy! You deserve this opportunity. Enjoy, its going to be a sensation!

[Mélanie]

Congratulations!!! It's great that you enjoyed your time cooking the private dinners and that you found your inspiration again (so quickly!).
I'm sure this will be a success!

[Laura]

What an adventure this is going to be! Congratulations!!!

[wattacetti]

Well, very late to the comments line, but congratulations! This is excellent news that you're opening up your new place and I can't wait to see your updated menu. Now to see about when to get those reservations.

By the way, you made me laugh with the Texan doctors. 10 years worth of investigator meetings, and I've never seen anyone take the vegetarian option.

[Mary Ann]

Oh, I'm SOOOoooo happy for you. I've enjoyed living through your food experiences for years and NOW I'll get a real chance to taste your cooking for myself. What a delightful treat. I live in Milwaukee BUT have the best reason ever to visit SF. Wishing you the success you deserve and have worked so hard for and I'm hungry for more of your adventures. Good Luck!

[Christian]

Just one word: wow!

[Funnylifian]

Congratulations Amy! I can't believe you're going to be running your own kitchen. My, how you;ve grown. Sniff! I'm positive you'll do amazing. Can't wait to dine there (and get totally hooked up, of course).

We miss you in the kitchen. I do, at least. And guess what?! Chris moved me to A.M Hot Apps. I was on Veg only for a month! I have a feeling this has something to do with you. Anyway, take care. and Keep blogging, of course.

[Ms. Glaze]

Funnylifian – you'll be great on Morning Hot Apps. Be organized and make a system and time yourself so you know if you're ahead or behind. Nico will make sure you're set up and I'm sure he will share his routine. Take the bull by the horns...and think of those weekends you'll have off! Oh, and make some Keralan fish curry and fish fry for family meal. That will be a big hit!

[Ms. Glaze]

Thanks everyone for the support! I feel like I'm on a roller coaster right now. One day the sun is shining and the next I want stick my head in the sand. I have literally two weeks to get this place up and running and move back to San Francisco. Yikes!

That being said, I'd rather be the crazy whirlwind that I am right now than a bored home alone one.

Once again, thank you, and I hope you will stop by some time in the future and pop your head in the kitchen and say 'hi'.

[Sherry Page]

Amy, so nice to hear that you are back in town! And opening up a new restaurant, too! Look forward to seeing you again soon!

[MichaelG]

I ate at Le Club once a number of years ago. Beautiful place and I had a great meal. This is terrific. You're gonna do great. Congrats and good luck!

[Bistro LightCatcher/Caris]

If you need a stagier (free help!), I'm there. Many congrats - the food gods are watching out for you. Le Club and your line looks fantastique! Incroyable!

I'm in need of a custom made woman's chef coat - can you recommend the SF maker you've mentioned? Contact info?

Cheers!

[Patty]

This is great news!!! Congratulations and I know you'll do well. You've got the talent, love for your craft and loads of experience to make this place into a gem. My next visit to SF will be the time for a great meal!

[Karen@Mignardise]

Best wishes to you in your exciting new venture! Yours is the first food blog I ever read, still read and enjoy. I hope you'll find the time to keep writing too.

Bonne chance!

[Scott]

Congratulations! Very excited for you, can't wait to get to San Fran and eat at Le Club.

And those statler chickens look great!

[Lynda]

Congratulations and welcome back to San Francisco! We've been meaning to go to Le Club with friends, and now we certainly will!

[Joe]

HI NICE ONE

[adele]

Congratulations!

[Kim]

Congratulations! Kudos to your hard work and persistance.

It's a pleasure following your kitchen adventures, and I anticipate hearing more about this new one. Hope you enjoy the roller coaster while riding!

[Jerry]

"trust no one"

Words to live by ;^)

San Francisco eaters are about to get lucky.

[Marla]

"what a long strange trip this has been...." Ok not strange, exciting, rollercoastery, and very absorbing for those of us vicariously following along. I agree with some one earlier about the book, but I'm sure that will come and do hope you keep us on the ride with you. You will knock em out no doubt. In boca al lupo!" which is an an Italian saying for good luck but along the lines of "break a leg".....ciao

[Anne]

Amy,
Years ago my son and I went from the children's book by Alice Waters: Fanny At Chez Panisse to reading your blog. Now you have a restaurant, too, we'll certainly drive in from West Marin to come and dine!
Congratulations and welcome back to the Bay Area!
Anne

[Rachel]

Congrats!!

Need any pastry help? I can intern (free!)

[luis]

Very happy for you Amy. You are on your way girl. Don't look back.
It's all in front of you now. They have any brains ...at all they give you a piece of the place. Don't see how else they expect to keep your type of talent around... If it hasn't happened it will.

[Tiffany]

I don't usually comment even though I love your blog, but this post is so exciting(!!) that I have to.
I'm cheering you on and will definitely be visiting Le Club in the near future. You do all these things I wish I could do, and it's great to see you achieve so much. Good luck with everything!

[Alessio Fangano]

Amy I cant believe it! I leave you for a couple of months and you open your own restaurant. Congratulations my friend! It will surely be on my list the day I will pop by SF. BTW pop by my blog for your award http://recipetaster.blogspot.com/2010/02/its-chickpea-affair.html

Congratulations again! :-)

[Medical Consultation]

wow..I love the food in your restaurant..Congratulations to you..